Western Arctic National Parklands Residency Day 24: Cape Krusenstern
Jessica L. Bryant
The lagoons research crew here operates on a late schedule, typically heading out around noon. Sleeping in is the norm, so I didn't get up until 10am. Brian made pancakes and potatoes with onion and sausage. Once everyone was up and ready, we loaded gear into the two four wheeler trailers, and the first group of four headed out on the ocean in an inflatable boat, south to Aukulak Lagoon. Two others drove the four wheelers down and our driver boated back up for the last two. The day was spent photographing and filming the crew setting various nets, checking the nets, and processing fish (documenting species, length, and releasing back to the lagoon). We worked out of two locations, at the northern and southern parts on the west side of Aukulak, and a net out in the middle of the south side. Among many interesting things, they caught several fish that are believed to be a new species of sculpin. They documented details necessary to submit for confirmation. We were on a narrow spit of land separating us from the ocean, and I spent some time photographing over there as well. The landscapes here are fantastic to explore.
After 6pm, maybe 7, we packed both boats across to the ocean and headed back north to camp, stopping at a recent slump along the way where you can actively watch the permafrost melting out and the tundra dropping over the edge. Chunks of sediment, large and small, were continuously dripping and falling as the water ran in small rivulets. The permafrost holds together these sediments until disturbed. Once disturbed, the erosion is quick and dramatic. Gives a new understanding to the way the tundra plants grow down the slope of the land along the ocean. It's easy to see how a small change in the water level could vastly alter the shape of the land.
Back at camp, Brian started on dinner: spaghetti, asparagus, and carrots. I wandered along the beach again, looking at all the treasures: rocks, shells, tracks. I forgot to mention a story yesterday. A few days before we arrived there was a storm that brought the ocean level up past the beach to the grass next to the tents. The grizzly that regularly walks the beach instead walked the path next to the tents. The first tent he passed he made noise that woke the person inside, who saw the outline of the bear. He pushed on her tent and she yelled to scare him off. When he got to the next tent, he again woke the person inside, who saw the outline of a bear, but this time the bear bit the corner of the tent. He left after the inhabitant yelled. We are attentive to bear possibilities, but have had no problems.
While dinner prep was in process, I sat on the beach and painted. After eating we spent some casual time sitting around in the kitchen, chatting, sometimes drifting off for other purposes and returning. I went out to photograph the sunset, then joined the others around a fire on the beach. We watched the auroras that started up after 1am, and around 3am I headed to bed, just two others stayed up later. After a bit I heard "wow" whispered loudly, repeatedly, then a quiet "Jeeesssica." They were trying to let me know that the lights had really ramped up. I leaned out my tent to look, then got up again and went back to the fire to watch with the others until after 4:15. It was magical.
Aukulak Lagoon was today, Krusenstern Lagoon is tomorrow, and this map below shows where the Anigaaq Ranger Station cabins are (white dot between ocean and river) compared to Aukulak Lagoon.