Western Arctic National Parklands Residency Day 6: Wilderness

After walking and calling for morning check in, we were up and checking the tundra for bears.  Again there was a bear to the south, between the southern end of our lake and the first lake we hiked to yesterday.  We were up wind, and figured he would spook when he caught our sent.  He was a big guy.  When he didn't run off, we yelled loudly, waved coats in the air, blew a whistle, all the usual deterrents.  Instead of moving on, he kept coming closer, curious.  He stood up a few times to smell the air.  When he was about 50 yards off Tyler said it was time to make sure he is afraid of us and runs off, so pulled out the shotgun to fire a round in the air.  Just before the shot fired, he seemed to catch our smell and started to jog away, when Tyler fired, the loud noise made him jump and take off at a full run across the tundra toward the creek.  Since he wasn't scare off at first, Tyler figures this is a 2-3 year old male, they tend to be less smart.  This makes 6 grizzlies spotted on our trip.

We finished packing up for the day, eating the usual breakfast, watching the loons.  There were three this morning, over near where Tyler was sitting by the trees.  Two dove, the last gave a "yip!" as he dove, just like the one yesterday.  Hysterical.  We finished the rest of the morning routine, then we hiked northwest back to the creek we visited on day 2.  Hiking across the tundra was relatively uneventful, though slow going as usual.  We saw some animal tracks.  We arrived at the rise above the creek and found the game trail we took before to get down the bank.  At the base of the trail we traded hiking boots for hip waders and finished the trek to the water.  We wandered and explored through deep muck, moss, and grasses, wading shallower sections of the creek.  Such a gorgeous area, it was great to return with the wader and have the time and ability to explore deeper.  We found the source of the strange sound we heard last time, a repetitive noise that we first thought was an animal walking through the water, except it was too rhythmical.  There's a log that's mostly submerged and the sound is the water moving around it.  Some parts of the creek were surprisingly deep, reminding me of peering into the deep pools at Yellowstone.  We climbed back out of the creek bed and had lunch up on the tundra where we could watch for bears.  Cheddar cheese and rye triscuits with granola bars.

After getting back to camp we relaxed a while along the lake, enjoying the views, then hiked back into the woods again to continue the project of burning the remains of an old camp.  We spent several more hours there.  The wind picked up significantly through the afternoon and this evening the lake is not at all glass-like.  Waves pounded the shoreline, stirring up sediment.  There were many colors swirling across the lake.  While burning we chatted away, yelling for bears.  On the hike out with some of the old aviation fuel cans we banged them together to frighten away any bears.  Back at camp it was dinner time, ravioli, canned pears, and trail mix.  It got colder and colder with the wind off the lake.  There were no bugs, so tempting to sit out longer, but the chill was a little much so we packed it up and went up to the tents. Spent a while photographing before heading in to charge up my camera battery, organize my stuff, and write this.  I'll read a bit yet before trying for sleep.

Addendum: I woke up in the middle of the night and decided I ought to get out for some night photos here while I still can.  Really pretty skies, and behind me the nearly full moon was above the horizon, brilliant, big, and vivid red.

Our morning grizzly, checking us out.

Smelling our scent.

Starting to move off to the west.

The view north as we hiked west to the creek.

View of the creek from the bank above.


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The water off the edge of this very narrow spit (maybe two feet wide and swampy) was exceptionally deep and fast.

Me exploring toward the end of the narrow spit of land.

Wading across one of the shallower water channels.
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Ranger Tyler checking out plants and sediment below the water.



I fell in love with this area.










In roughly the middle of the frame is the log that was causing the strange noise we heard.

Discovering fascinating views down a side channel.

The side channel.

Looking northeast.

Looking back toward the creek on our hike back across the tundra.

There were plenty of grasshoppers out on the tundra.  Hard to see this guy, he's so well camouflaged.

Wold scat!  As close as I've gotten to a wolf so far.  Would love to see one in the wild.

First view of our tents through the trees.  Only another 20 minutes or so to get there.

Bear track with claw marks.

Some patches of spongy sphagnum moss offer a welcome relief to feet tired from the uneven,
challenging tundra and constantly twisting ankles.  I have muscles and tendons on the tops of
my feet hurting that I have never felt before.

Camp!

Huge change in the color of the lake today with all the wind.  Greens and browns that haven't been there before.

A cozy spot for a rest along the lake while Tyler burns still more wood remnants.
Lots of blueberries within reach from this spot made for a nice fresh snack.

Looking south from this spot.

From behind the fire.

View of the fire from my seat by the lake.

More of the new colors visible in the lake today.

Choppy waters tonight.

Relaxing and taking in the view after dinner for one last night.

Thanks to Tyler for this pic.


Getting goofy on our hike up the bank to the tents.  Lead the way, oh mighty ranger!

I don't feel it's possible to convey the reality of tundra hiking to anyone who hasn't experienced it first hand.  So, more pics.
The variety of sounds underfoot are remarkable.  Most disturbing is the frequent sound of ripping grasses.
Goes against all instinct to keep moving when hearing this, but there's no other way to move through the tundra.

Closer view.

Last night at this camp.  Feeling nostalgic already.  It'll be hard to leave knowing it's terribly improbably that I will ever be able to return.


Cotton grass.

More tundra.  The shadows help define the taller tussocks.  The plants in between are tall and uneven.

Yes, I'm sharing still more photos of this spot.  I love it and can't help myself.

Panorama looking south and west.

Panorama looking north and east.

Inside my little home.

The sky in the middle of the night.