Western Arctic National Parklands Residency Day 22: Kotzebue, AK

I was up early today to get ready for a possible trip to Cape Krusenstern National Monument (waiting for travel paperwork to clear in time).  I had my own clothes and gear to pack, NPS gear to gather, and my workshop this evening to prepare for.

At noon I went in to the park with Tyler to get the room set up for tonight, moving tables, chairs and setting up painting supplies.  While there I got the word that the travel papers cleared so I'm good to go!  I also met the ranger whose project I'm tagging along on to Cape Krusenstern (more about this later), she flew in from the Fairbanks office this morning.  We met with Ranger Julia to work out travel plans and gear organization.

My workshop started at 6pm, but I was there early to finish setting up and get settled and ready.  It went well, there were about 20 people who painted a photo from my trip to Noatak National Preserve earlier this month.  The workshop wrapped up a little after 9pm, we did some rough cleaning and organizing, and headed home.  Tyler proceeded to sit down and work on his painting for another couple hours, making frustrated comments about his efforts that are exactly the things I think and say while working.  It's kind of cool to hear a friend experience the same things and have an idea what my job is like.  Most of the time people can't understand my experiences, they just see the finished product and it seems like an easy process for me to create it.

The aurora forecast for tonight was good, and I heard from Ranger Julia that last night was amazing outside of the town lights.  She went out with some friends on the loop road, a gravel road that runs a loop through the tundra connecting both ends of town.  Around midnight I got a text to confirm that I was welcome to join the small group headed out on the loop road again.  I grabbed my camera and tripod, plus a blanket and warm layers and headed out to meet them.  The auroras are variable and unpredictable, you have to just sit and be patient.  I spent a long time figuring out how to get a decent exposure.  It was challenging and in the end I was only able to get shots that blur the lights, they don't show the clarity of shape and movement.  I'm sure if I did night photography professionally I'd find some pretty nice gear to help get what I want.  Then there's still the problem of which way do you set your camera facing, since the lights move and you end up missing some of the best stuff.  Still, I have images that give some idea of what we saw.  The only downside was that it was terribly cold out there, I didn't have enough warm clothes along, and we were out until 4am.  I was falling asleep while standing up.  Too many late nights in a row, but impossible to pass up opportunities for great experiences.

Some images of the auroras.  The last few are brighter blue because the sun was starting to come up again.  It was weird, the sun set, it took hours for the sky to darken as much as it did, which was not all the way dark, then that patch of lightness just slid across the horizon until the sun started to come up again.  People here are used to it but it's really cool to watch.














Western Arctic National Parklands Residency Day 21: Kotzebue, AK

I was up early today, started packing for a possible mid-week trip, prepped watercolor paper for tomorrow's workshop, painted an example for tomorrow, had lunch, and took a little tour of town by bicycle.  It was a gorgeous, warm day, the sunniest and warmest I've seen yet in Kotebue, maybe 70 degrees (F), and a welcome respite from the cold and rain of the weekend.  The sky and ocean were vivid blues today.

For my tour of town, I visited the little gallery in town, went to one of the two stores, Rotman's, went to the hospital to check out what any of the art vendors might be selling today, then went to ACI, the other store in town.  All I got was photographs and bananas today.

This evening, we ate grilled lemon pepper chicken and I made garlic pasta with some seasonings and parmesan, also a lovely fresh salad.  After dinner we cleaned up, then headed out for a drive down the beach on the four wheeler.  There were many neat little finds along the way.  We went until we were stopped by a slump, then parked and climbed up the bank to the tundra above, picking blueberries and tundra tea.  Watched the colors on the ocean for a while, and the patterns of waves and light and dark areas that are affected by the large sandbars out there.  Then headed down and back.  Before town, we veered up onto different roads for a couple of great views of the sunset.  It was basically sunset from just after we left until just before we got back.  Just gorgeous.

The forecast looks good for the auroras here tonight through mid-week, so Tyler gave me tips on when, where, how to view.  He ducked out around midnight to look, but nothing yet.  I stayed up and checked again closer to 1am.  They were there, but really hard to see with all the lights from town.  Almost looked more like whispy clouds except for the way they slowly move.  I went in and grabbed cameras, then headed out to see if the view by the water was good.  Definitely not, far too much light.  Still, I walked all the way up to the hotel before turning around.  At home I grabbed the bike and my headlamp and set out toward the park's hangar, a spot that was recommended for viewing.  It was pretty weird to be out biking in the middle of the night, with light in the sky, and a few people still out on four wheelers or trucks, slowly passing me.  Rode south from town, across both airport runways, and to the hangar driveway.  As I got there the auroras faded away.  I know they go in spurts, so waited a while, but it's late and the forecast for them is great the next couple nights, too.  There's a good chance I'll have better viewing conditions wednesday night, fingers crossed!

Chukchi Sea, Arctic Ocean, and Cape Krusenstern National Monument.

The gallery.

Rib bone of a whale outside the gallery.

The store.  Behind me is the ocean.

Driving across Sadie Creek, which usually doesn't flow like this.  Recent rains have made it quick and a little deep.

Panorama of the beach and ocean from Sadie Creek.

Up on the tundra.

Headed back down.

Found part of a crab.

The recent slump that stopped us.

Heading back.




Walrus carcass.


Looking back on Lavonne's Fish Camp.

Grasses catching the light.

Looking down on the road we took out to the beach, several local mushers keep their dogs down there.
The fireweed was dispersing it's seeds all over town today.  Clouds of fluffy white.



Headed back to town, Cape Krusenstern and the mouth of the Noatak visible on the horizon.

The ocean and Cape Krusenstern from Kotzebue, at 1:30am.  Rocks are bright because of street lamps.
No photos of the northern lights tonight, they were too dim with the lights from town.